Swiss cheese vine (Monstera adansonii) care

Aroids · easy to keep

Last updated 27 October 2026

The Swiss cheese vine: a smaller, faster, holier relative of the big monstera, with leaves perforated like lace from the day they open. It trails happily from a shelf but is a climber by nature, and given a pole it makes leaves three times the size. It is one of the quickest aroids to fill out a pot.

Quick facts

Water

Water weekly. Water when the top 5 cm of mix is dry, then water until it runs out of the bottom. Monsteras would rather be a day late than a day early.

Light

Bright indirect light; an hour or two of early sun is fine, midday sun is not.

Humidity

Happy at normal room humidity; better above 50%.

Soil

A chunky aroid mix — bark, perlite and coir, something water runs straight through.

Feeding

A balanced liquid feed at half strength, every second or third watering in spring and summer.

Repotting

Repot once a year.

Toxic to pets

Toxic to cats, dogs and people if chewed — the sap carries insoluble calcium oxalate crystals, which burn the mouth and throat. Keep it off the floor if anything in the house tastes its way through life. The ASPCA does not list Monstera adansonii itself, but lists a relative, Ceriman (Monstera deliciosa), as toxic to cats and dogs (checked 26 October 2026).

Difficulty

Easy.

Mature size

Vines to 2 m or more; leaves 10–25 cm.

Native to

Central and South America.

Watering a Swiss cheese vine

Water weekly. Water when the top 5 cm of mix is dry, then water until it runs out of the bottom. Monsteras would rather be a day late than a day early.

That cadence is the one PlantParlour sets for this species when you name it, and it is deliberately on the cautious side — a plant that asks a day early is safer than one that asks a day late. Log each watering and the reminder moves with the plant rather than with the calendar.

Light

Bright indirect light, which in practice means a metre or two back from an east or west window, or right up against a north one. Monsteras will survive in low light and simply stop earning their name: the new leaves come out smaller and solid, with no splits. Direct midday sun bleaches them to a pale khaki.

Humidity and temperature

Happy at normal room humidity; better above 50%. Central heating in winter is what turns a comfortable room into a dry one, and it is the usual reason an established plant suddenly browns at the edges or picks up spider mites.

Soil and potting

Monsteras are climbers that root into bark in the wild, not into soil. A peat-only compost holds water against the roots and is the usual reason a healthy plant turns yellow. Cut potting soil half-and-half with orchid bark and perlite, or buy a ready-made aroid mix.

Feeding

A balanced liquid feed at half strength, every second or third watering in spring and summer. Stop feeding in autumn and start again when you see new growth in spring — feeding a plant that isn't growing just builds up salts in the pot.

Repotting

Repot once a year. Repot when roots come out of the drainage holes, in spring. Go up one pot size only — a monstera in too big a pot sits wet. Give it a moss pole at the same time: aerial roots that find something to climb produce noticeably larger, better-fenestrated leaves.

Common problems

• Yellow leaves, usually the oldest ones first

  Overwatering, or a mix that holds water. The roots have been wet long enough to start dying back.

  Fix: Let it dry out further between waterings, and repot into something chunkier if the mix stays soggy for days.

  Yellow leaves: how to read it on any plant

• New leaves come out small and with no splits

  Not enough light, or nothing to climb.

  Fix: Move it closer to the window and give it a moss pole. Fenestration is a maturity signal; the plant withholds it when conditions say stay small.

• Brown crispy edges

  Dry air, or a build-up of salts from tap water and fertiliser.

  Fix: Raise humidity, and flush the pot thoroughly with plain water every few months.

  Brown tips and edges: how to read it on any plant

• Fine webbing between stems, leaves stippled pale

  Spider mites, which arrive in dry warm air.

  Fix: Shower the whole plant, then treat every five days for three weeks — one treatment never gets the eggs.

  Spider mites: how to read it on any plant

Propagation

Cut just below a node — the brown bump where a leaf and an aerial root meet. A cutting with a node and one leaf roots in water in three to six weeks, or straight into damp sphagnum. A cutting without a node will never root, however long you wait.

A cutting taken in PlantParlour keeps its link to the plant it came from, so a propagation years later still traces back to the mother plant — which is the point if you ever sell or trade it.

Toxicity and safety

Toxic to cats, dogs and people if chewed — the sap carries insoluble calcium oxalate crystals, which burn the mouth and throat. Keep it off the floor if anything in the house tastes its way through life.

The ASPCA does not list Monstera adansonii itself, but lists a relative, Ceriman (Monstera deliciosa), as toxic to cats and dogs (checked 26 October 2026).

Every houseplant in the library the ASPCA lists as non-toxic to cats and dogs

Named cultivars and variegations

Monstera adansonii is sold under several cultivar names. Care is the same unless noted; variegated forms carry less chlorophyll, so they grow more slowly and want more light than the plain species.

Where the variegated forms are grown differently from the plain Monstera adansonii:

Questions people ask

Related plants

• Monstera deliciosa
• Monstera 'Burle Marx Flame'
• Monstera obliqua
• Monstera standleyana
• Monstera karstenianum
• Monstera siltepecana
• Monstera dubia
• Monstera epipremnoides

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